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2021 Bourgogne Rouge
La Soeur CadetteValentin Montanet
The view from La Sœur Cadette
Valentin Montanet
Valentin Montanet is one of the few vignerons I know who falls into two different schools of winemaking depending on whether he is producing white or red Burgundy. Having been influenced by Chablis’s illustrious Raveneau family, Valentin—and his father Jean before him—produces pure, complex, and classically Burgundian Chardonnay. But when it comes to Pinot Noir, which is like a blank slate in his sliver of Burgundy, Valentin leans more toward his comrades in Morgon than to most domaines in the Côte-d’Or. It’s not that you’d ever mistake this beautiful Bourgogne rouge for Gamay, as Pinot Noir’s trademark notes of cherries, black tea, and earth are all front and center. It’s rather that, in this cuvée, which never surpasses 13% in alcohol, Valentin always prizes the high-toned fruit, refreshment, and joyousness that today are most associated with the best of the Beaujolais. He achieves these qualities thanks to northern Burgundy’s relatively cool climate, which he harnesses to find the lighter and brighter side of Pinot. When I close my eyes and try to dream up the ideal bistro red, it doesn’t come any closer than this. Pair it with just about anything and, if you have time, try your hand at Georgeanne Brennan’s chicken in mustard sauce.
You can find Georgeanne Brennan’s recipe here.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Pinot Noir |
Appellation: | Bourgogne |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine de la Cadette |
Winemaker: | Valentin Montanet |
Vineyard: | 20 - 25 years, 13.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Aged for 8 months in 228L barrel |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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Stylistically, Les Clous is in between La Fortune—lighter and brighter—and La Digoine—the densest and most sappy, characterized by medium weight with more red fruits, smooth but present tannins, and distinctive polish.
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About The Producer
Domaine de la Cadette
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
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