2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”La Marca di San Michele
Italy | Le Marche
$27
Producers
Liguria is best known for its crisp, aromatic whites—perfumed quaffers that get along nicely with the seafood-based cuisine. The region’s rare red wines often feature Sangiovese imported from nearby Tuscany or Granaccia (Grenache) from southern France, but other Ligurian reds spotlight indigenous grapes planted only in very localized areas.
Nothing could be truer of Crovino, a dark-skinned red grown, as far as we know, exclusively by the Ruffino family of Punta Crena, in their vineyards overlooking the seaside town of Varigotti. Crovino gives low yields, and its berries tend to fall to the ground upon achieving full ripeness, inciting other growers to tear out their vines in favor of less fussy varieties.
Fortunately, we can still enjoy a taste of Varigotti history through this delightfully fresh, spicy, medium-bodied red scented of tart blackberries, wild mint, and other aromatic herbs you would find on a hike through Liguria’s coastal mountains. It shines alongside regional pasta dishes—pansotti with salsa alle noci (walnut sauce) is a classic—or cuisine from Liguria’s mountainous interior, such as roast rabbit with taggiasca olives and wild herbs.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Crovino |
Appellation: | Colline Savonesi |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Liguria |
Producer: | Punta Crena |
Winemaker: | Tommaso Ruffino & Family |
Vineyard: | 11 years, 32-41 years, 62-71 years, .8 ha |
Soil: | Sandy Gravel |
Farming: | Traditional |
Alcohol: | 13% |
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.
Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.
The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.
While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
Tenuta Anfosso Italy | Liguria
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
Tenuta Anfosso Italy | Liguria | Rossese di Dolceacqua
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Tenuta Anfosso Italy | Liguria | Rossese di Dolceacqua
Tenuta Anfosso Italy | Liguria | Rossese di Dolceacqua
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa