2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Muscadet’s greatest asset is its directness. This is simple wine that begs for a complement.
Traditionally, oysters, which demand no great dimension of flavor in the wine, are its most authentic match. Recent trials proved that it is difficult to move beyond the realm of the ocean with this wine, so naturally wedded are its components to the flavors of the sea. I’ve always preferred slightly creamy oysters (those on their way to spawn) which are perfectly balanced by the appley tang and occasional spritz in this wine. Mussels and potatoes, tossed in a cream-bound reduction of the juices rendered in the skillet by the mussels, work in much the same way. Serve the Muscadet well chilled with the salad. —Paul Bertolli, 1995 Newsletter
Click here for Paul Bertolli’s WARM POTATO AND MUSSEL SALAD recipe.
Long praised as the ultimate oyster wine—an entirely deserved reputation—Muscadet can be even more than your drink of choice to chase bivalves. Uncommonly full and rich but still sporting the crisp acidity and low alcohol that make it so sessionable, this 2020 is a Muscadet to enjoy with oysters as well as alongside seared scallops, warm mussels, or roast chicken.
It fills the mouth with suspicions of honeysuckle and pulpy stone fruits, all while maintaining classic notes of iodine and sea breeze that make this the vinous equivalent of tidepooling.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
Appellation: | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | André-Michel Brégeon |
Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
Vineyard: | 40 years average, 7.8 ha total |
Soil: | Gabbro |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 11% |
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire | Vin de France
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Val de Loire
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa