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2023 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Sur lie, as mentioned on Brégeon’s appropriately golden label, means Fred Lailler’s crystalline Muscadet keeps contact on a bed of inactive yeast as it matures, undisturbed, in underground cuves. This practice lends a hint of richness in the form of volume and character, plus a subtle ray of warmth, to an otherwise bracingly mineral white. Classic Muscadet aromas endure, especially in a vintage like 2023, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines. This one could do much more at table than wash away a few bivalves.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | André-Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 40 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Gabbro |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 11% |
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About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312