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2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
Evocative: a rarely used tasting note, maybe, but a fitting one for this wine. Shared with colleagues a few days ago, the Clisson’s expressive wet-stone and saline qualities summoned memories of the seaside and lavish oyster-accompanied aperitifs, while its long palate conjured a comparison to never-ending meals (“because it evolves like a good feast”). For my part, I was brought back to a particularly refreshing moment on vacation in Yosemite last month, when I plunged my feet into the icy-cold waters of the Merced River. A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
—Emily Spillmann
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
Appellation: | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | André-Michel Brégeon |
Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
Soil: | Granite |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 12% |
More from this Producer or Region

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2023 Chinon “Les Granges”
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2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
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Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees.

2023 Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
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This racy wine is a perfect match for all types of crustaceans as well all by itself on a sunny afternoon.

2021 Vin de France Blanche
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This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.

2020 Vin de France Blanche
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This lithe and expressive “orange” wine is an ideal palate-opener with a dry, cleansing finish and a fresh, cooling effect like coastal sage and seaspray.

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2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
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When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.

2023 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
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It fills the mouth with suspicions of honeysuckle and pulpy stone fruits, all while maintaining classic notes of iodine and sea breeze that make this the vinous equivalent of tidepooling.

2023 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
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Lime blossoms delivered via a lightning bolt of minerally refreshment.
About The Producer
André-Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
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The Natural World of Thierry Germain
6-Bottle Sampler France | Loire
Sampler Includes:
2023 Saumur Blanc “L’Insolite” $46.00
A sleek and racy Chenin, with focus and precision. Made from nearly hundred-year-old vines, it’s a great initiation into the world of Thierry’s white wines, and tastes of wet stone, pear, and citrus.
2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Echelier” $79.00
Grapes grow on a limestone plateau in an eighteenth-century clos. This bottling glistens with nerve and draws a firm line on the palate from its stony soil, composed of the highly porous tuffeau chalk.
2023 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine” $29.00
An elegant, younger-vine cuvée that’s peppery and stony. Full of vigor and charm, this is his most versatile red.
2021 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes” $42.00
Made mostly from the celebrated lieu-dit Les Poyeux, the resulting wine is as pure an expression of Cabernet Franc as one could imagine, surpassing expectations of what this variety can do.
2021 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale” $56.00
A cuvée that’s made in worthy vintages only, from a warm, south-facing parcel that reaches levels of maturity unmatched in the region. In its youth, the palate is plush and saline. Over time, it offers delicate notes of peony and sour cherry.
2021 Saumur Champigny “Les Mémoires” $67.00
Here, centenarian vines from the walled-in Clos de La Folie grow on a rare combination of silex and limestone, at the highest point in the appellation. This cooler outpost offers a profound wine that courses with energy and wisdom.
Normally $319.00
SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $239.00
(a 25% discount)
2019 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2023 Sancerre
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Vouvray
Champalou France | Loire
2023 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2023 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2023 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2018 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2021 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2022 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
The Natural World of Thierry Germain
In addition to the wine tasting experience, a visit to Thierry’s is a feast for the senses.
2019 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2023 Sancerre
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Vouvray
Champalou France | Loire
Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
If you're looking for value, look where no one else is looking.
Inspiring Thirst, page 211