2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
In the pages of this newsletter back in 2007 (and later reprinted in his book A Really Big Lunch), Jim Harrison describes a “nasty summer in Montana” during which a heat wave made it impossible to enjoy his typical red wine favorites. A short list of whites replaced them—the select few capable of quenching his thirst—and La Cadette’s Vezelay blanc was among them. To current vigneron Valentin Montanet, this celebrated American author’s acknowledgment is more important than Parker’s glowing 2006 Châtelaine rating. “We are very proud that Big Jim had such a good time with la Châtelaine,” he says with characteristic cheekiness. “It is a bottle that fits any need; a sure bet that comforts and brings pleasure after a long day of hard work or a long day doing nothing in particular.” Best to tuck a couple bottles away: in case of heat waves, hard work, or no work at all.
—Emily Spillmann
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Vézelay |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine de la Cadette |
Winemaker: | Valentin Montanet |
Vineyard: | 25 years, 13.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Wine is aged for 7 to 10 months in stainless steel before bottling |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Vézelay
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
La Soeur Cadette France | Beaujolais | Juliénas
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne Vézelay
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
Jean-Claude Regnaudot et Fils France | Burgundy | Maranges
Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy | Meursault
Domaine Bertheau France | Burgundy | Chambolle-Musigny
Domaine Larue France | Burgundy | Saint-Aubin
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Aloxe-Corton
Domaine Régis Bouvier France | Burgundy | Morey Saint Denis
Domaine Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy | Saint-Aubin
Domaine de Villaine France | Burgundy | Bouzeron
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy | Corton Grand Cru
Régis Bouvier France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
Domaine Larue France | Burgundy | Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy | Savigny-lès-Beaune
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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