Every day, my colleagues and I walk past poster-size photos of some of France and Italy’s most distinguished vignerons and vineyard land, and it’s impossible not to feel inspired by these men and women who—and places which—represent some of the pinnacles of wine. At the same time, it has arguably been harder for us to locate the top $15 wines of those countries than the wines that cost several times that amount, even if the latter are made by producers who have earned the widest renown over the years. It makes sense—they craft the absolute best from their appellations and they make relatively little of it, because their land is expensive and the work is hard. But what about value? What about the winemaking family who has done the best you can possibly do for the price of a movie ticket or burger in the Bay Area?
     About a decade ago, after years of searching, we finally found the artisans in Monferrato who could craft the Italian answer to our beloved KL Côtes du Rhône or Languedoc blends. It’s not that we hadn’t tried to find this before—we had! Several times! But we’re talking about trying to hit the sweetest spot:

A delicious red blend? Check
Expressive of the region’s traditions, soil, climate, etc.? Check
Made by a family domaine? Check
Under $15? Check

     Every vintage of the Monferrato Rosso we have imported in the last decade has consisted of a different blend of Piedmontese grapes from the previous vintage, reflecting the unique conditions of each year. Unlike the 2016, for example, which is majority Barbera, with a quarter Bonarda, a tenth Dolcetto, and 5% Croatina, the 2017 is made up of a whopping 90% Barbera and just 10% Bonarda. In spite of that year’s heat wave, the 2017 bottling is remarkably fresh. Intensely aromatic, it evokes frutti di bosco, though it’s not just fruit. On the finish, there are light notes of spice, earth, and tobacco mixed in too. It has a gentle tannin for structure and, largely due to Barbera’s leading role in the blend, great acidity to leave you with a refreshing finish.
      The 2017 Monferrato Rosso is a wine for all occasions, from barbecues to pizza night to your springtime picnic. It’s the bottle you should always have on hand in the case of wine emergency—it will do the trick no matter your situation. Even though the Bodda family of Tenuta La Pergola may never achieve cult-like fame, at this price, you couldn’t ask for more.