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2017 Barbera d’Alba Superiore
A. & G. Fantino
Across Europe, the summer of 2017 was a hot one. By August, the heat wave, which reached 109 degrees Fahrenheit in some regions, had earned an appropriate name: Lucifer. This Barbera, made by the humble but masterful Fantino brothers, bears marks of that dry heat. Unlike in cooler years, when the wine is luscious and exuberant, the 2017 Barbera d’Alba Superiore has a strong tannin and the fruit is feral, suggesting you have found Italy’s Bandol rouge. Notes of cherries, strawberries, iron, and balsamic vinegar are tightly coiled in a soulful, untamed package. Because the Fantinos are so talented, the wine has finesse despite the heat of the vintage. The acidity is as mouthwatering as ever, the alcohol level remains balanced, and the fruit is preserved. Barbera’s bright acidity makes it a champion at table. Open it alongside a wide range of cuisines, from hearty pastas to grilled meats and roasted vegetables. Try it with a chanterelle risotto for a match made in heaven—Lucifer not allowed!
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2017 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Barbera |
| Appellation: | Barbera d’Alba |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Piedmont |
| Producer: | A. & G. Fantino |
| Winemaker: | Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino |
| Vineyard: | 60 years |
| Soil: | Sandy Clay |
| Aging: | Fermented and aged in stainless steel tank for 18 months, aged in bottle for 3 months before release |
| Farming: | Sustainable |
| Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
A. & G. Fantino
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174