Welcome to Basque country, where Michel and Thérèse Riouspeyrous of Domaine Arretxea biodynamically farm Irouléguy’s steep mountain slopes just miles from the Spanish border. There is a lot of wine here: Tannat and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon give a powerful beast built for the long haul, yet delightfully balanced at only 12% alcohol. Pitch-black in color with dense, earthy tannins and suggestions of wild forest berries and spice, their Haitza bottling is the Pyrenees’ answer to Clape’s Cornas and Tempier’s Cabassaou. And old vintages—you can’t help but think, “Why didn’t I put down more of this one?”
Just after losing his father, Michel Riouspeyrous was raised by his grandfather, with whom he worked the family vineyards. He gravitated towards studies in Agronomy before the mandatory service sent him to Africa. While in Africa, Michel met Thérèse, an Alsatian who was on vacation. They married and returned to Michel’s home in the Southwest. In 1989, they started their own domaine by renting 2 ha. The decision to farm organically came instantaneously to Michel. Once certified as organic, they pushed on towards biodynamics. For the couple, it just translates into a more authentic expression. A mere glimpse of their vineyards, amid beautiful wildflowers, set against the Pyrénées, makes it easy to see what inspired such a decision.
Tucked away beneath Bordeaux and buffeted by the Pyrenees to the south, this expansive region of France, commonly known as the Southwest, is home to a diverse number of viticulture and gastronomic traditions as well as cultures. Though Cahors might be the most well known (and easiest to pronounce) appellation from the Southwest, the importance and influence of French Basque culture cannot be underestimated. Irouléguy, the primary appellation of the Basque region of France produces full-bodied, hearty red wines, produced from Tannat grape (known for its tannic qualities). Dry whites from Irouléguy are also produced from Petit and Gros Manseng. Northeast of Irouléguy is the sweet wine-producing appellation of Jurançon. These moelleux wines made from Petit and Gros Manseng have a storied history in France, from being the first wine region to have a vineyard classification, which dates back to the 154th century, to being preferred wine of royalty dating back to the 16th century as well as the French poet Colette.
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa