2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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by Anthony Lynch
Cagnulari owns the spotlight around Alghero, on the island’s northwest coast. Thought to be the local version of Spain’s Graciano, possibly introduced to Sardinia during the period of Catalan occupation centuries ago, Cagnulari is a dense, inky red. In the three years since we began working with family-run Vigne Rada, we have seen their Cagnulari go from an unapologetically tannic, tooth-staining animal to something velvety, replete with rich black fruit and fragrant reminders of the scrubby coastal vegetation that surrounds the vineyards. Rada’s dense, minty 2016 Cagnulari is a reminder to take Sardinian reds very seriously. Make room on your table and in your cellar to savor novel flavors from these newfound stars of this Mediterranean paradise.
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch
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