2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Hailing from Le Marche, a region on a similar latitude as Tuscany but situated on Italy’s eastern, Adriatic coast, Verdicchio is responsible for mouthwatering whites that are extremely refreshing, versatile, and, in certain cases, age-worthy. But this Verdicchio from Azienda Santa Barbara is not a profound, long-lived wine: this bright, zesty, lemony quaffer is destined for early drinking, at a price that encourages unlimited thirst-quenching pleasure for all.
While Le Marche has a long coastline, complete with gorgeous beaches and fresh seafood, the region’s interior stretches all the way to the Apennines, the mountain range that forms Italy’s spinal cord from north to south. The rolling foothills of the Apennines, with views of the Adriatic in the distance, are where the region’s vineyards are concentrated, and the town of Jesi is a historic stronghold for fine Verdicchio. Uncork this one with seafood pasta, or simply as an aperitivo to whet your palate in times of dire thirst.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2016 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Verdicchio |
Appellation: | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Marche |
Producer: | Azienda Santa Barbara |
Vineyard: | 30 year old vines, 25 ha |
Soil: | Sandy tuffo |
Aging: | Wine ages in stainless steel for 3 months |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 12% |
Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.
In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.
While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.
Deperu Holler Italy | Sardinia | Isola dei Nuraghi
Peter Dipoli Italy | Alto Adige | Alto Adige
Piero Benevelli Italy | Piedmont | Dolcetto d’Alba
Benevelli Piero Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Colline Savonesi
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Carricante Sicilia
Manni Nössing Italy | Alto Adige | Alto Adige – Valle Isarco
Château Feuillet Italy | Valle d’Aosta | Valle d’Aosta
Grottafumata Italy | Sicily | IGT Terre Siciliane
Deperu Holler Italy | Sardinia | Isola dei Nuraghi
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa