That is, until you splash some of Régis Bouvier’s Marsannay rosé into your glass. Hailing from the only rosé-producing village on the Côte d’Or, it radiates a bright perfume of pomegranate, cranberry, and cherry before a bone-dry, chalky finish. The Pinot fruit is fine and nuanced—as it should be, coming from these hallowed slopes—but Régis has also captured a whimsical element that is often lacking in wines from this area. The perfect quaffer for warm fall evenings, it has even been known to inspire giggles as it races down the hatch.
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.