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It’s a good thing for us that Alsace isn’t part of Burgundy. What we have here—a wine from one of the absolute top estates in the entire region, all from declassified fruit from one of the absolute top grand cru sites in the entire region, all from the region’s most noble grape—would simply be impossible to come by in a Burgundian context. Imagine declassified Chardonnay from Corton-Charlemagne made by one of the greats from Meursault . . . the wine would never see the pages of this newsletter! And I shudder to think of the price. If the collectors aren’t chasing after Alsace, I say let them drink Burgundy and leave more Boxler for the rest of us. This is real-deal Riesling here, with the full aromatic intensity and opulent yet dry structure well beyond what one wishes for when reaching for a Riesling.
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.