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The Holy Grail of Lagrein

The Holy Grail of Lagrein

by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch

2014 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva

2014 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva

Ferruccio Carlotto   

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In the mountains of Alto Adige, Michela Carlotto and her father Ferruccio have created a perfect cross between precise northern craftsmanship and suave Italian class. In their hands, the local Lagrein—a notoriously inky, tannic grape—is a thing of purity and finesse.
     Several years ago, after realizing Lagrein’s rustic side could be tamed with a gentle vinification, they began to harvest earlier and shorten macerations with the goal of crafting a powerful, age-worthy wine that would also offer immediate satisfaction. The 2014 illustrates the outcome of their philosophy: this dark, brooding beast has silky-fine tannins providing a delicate platform for its deep mountain berry fruit to shine. A relatively new addition to our portfolio, Carlotto demonstrates the potential for wildly intense, yet elegant reds in Italy’s northernmost grape-growing region.

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About The Region

Alto Adige

map of Alto Adige

In the heart of the Dolomites, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region. Having changed hands multiples times in its history between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire (it shares a border with Austria), it boasts strong Germanic influence on its culture, language, cuisine, as well as its wines.

The mountainous geography is the principal determinant of local winemaking styles, with the high-altitude vineyards and cool Alpine climate favoring primarily crisp, racy, aromatic whites from varieties like Kerner, Sauvignon, Müller Thurgau, and Grüner Veltliner. A Mediterranean influence on climate is channeled north up the valley until Bolzano, permitting the cultivation of certain reds as well, among which Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot fare best.

Small growers who once sold fruit to the area’s multiple co-ops are now increasingly bottling their own wines. The arrival of many quality-oriented artisans on the scene caught our eye years ago, and we now count three estates from Südtirol, as it is also known, in our portfolio. These high-acid mountain wines make for a beautifully invigorating aperitivo with thinly sliced speck, a local specialty.

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Terroirs

Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312