2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
François Rousset-Martin takes great pride in the Jura's unique wine traditions, and Macvin is certainly among the region's rare specialties. Produced from unfermented Chardonnay must blended with marc (neutral grape spirit), then aged for five years in barrel, it has wild aromatics of dried fruit, spices, and candied citrus zest. Best served at the end of a meal as a digestif, it has enough sweetness to stand up to certain desserts, too. Try your hand at a crème brûlée au macvin for a truly inspired pairing.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2012 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Country: | France |
Region: | Jura |
Producer: | François Rousset-Martin |
Winemaker: | François Rousset-Martin |
Soil: | Gray marl |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 16% |
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.
Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.
Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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