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2004 Barbera del Monferrato Superiore “Valpane”

Cantine Valpane
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Cantine Valpane lies in the heart of the Monferrato, a beautiful, rustic land of rolling hills, small towns, and abundant vineyard plots. Proprietor Pietro Arditi's earthy Barberas are perfectly at home with the specialties of Piemontese cuisine. A gracious host who is not content until his guests are filled to the brim with food and wine to the point of lethargy, Pietro gets help from his whole family in the kitchen. The result is akin to a clinic on well-executed local dishes, including vitello tonnato, carne cruda alla piemontese, risotto al barbera, tajarin al ragù, and bunet for dessert. This convoy of food is naturally accompanied by a procession of various vintages of Pietro's Barberas. With this luscious, velvety, brooding 2004, try egg noodles with a hearty sauce for an optimal pairing.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2004
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 85% Barbera, 15% Freisa
Appellation: Barbera del Monferrato
Country: Italy
Region: Piedmont
Producer: Cantine Valpane
Winemaker: Pietro Arditi
Vineyard: Planted in 1980, 2000; 1.5 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Barbera aged for 12-18 months in 225L barriques and 500L tonneaux, Freisa is vinified and aged in stainless steel, then blended in before bottling
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Piedmont

map of Piedmont

Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.

Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.

Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.

Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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