Winemaker Paolo Ruffino says his cliff-side hometown of Varigotti is known for three things: “sea, sun, and rock!” This thirst-quenching, slightly prickly bottling of the native Lumassina grape captures all of those things and offered me respite from the fiery Szechuan food I ordered one night. It has a melony, jasmine scent, a frothy texture, and when paired with spicy wontons, dry-pepper chicken, and sesame noodles––though untraditional––was revelatory! It’s playful, low in alcohol, and a versatile complement to a range of cuisines.

Deperu Holler’s lovely Fria is a dazzling addition to the handful of zesty Vermentinos we import from other regions like Corsica and Provence. This one from Gallura, in Sardinia, offers a whole new take on the variety, proudly displaying classic notes of green almond and lime blossom while painting the portrait of an enviable summer’s eve on an island in the sea: sunny citrus, savory whiffs of wild herbs, and hints of chestnut give this Vermentino a characterful and unique personality all its own.

Considering how winemaker Lorenzo Mocchiutti approaches his work––his passion––a bottle from Vignai da Duline is a glimpse into his soul. He works with such intention: following a rigorous personal philosophy honed from years of practical experience and observation in nature to care for his vines, maintaining the region’s traditions of using Slavonian oak casks, and allowing his white wines to finish their malolactic fermentation, which brings balance and complexity. This invigorating bottle of La Duline blends local Tocai Giallo and Tocai Verde and will transport you to a wilder place where Mother Nature is queen, her essence captured in a wine.