Loire Reds
by Anthony Lynch
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
France | Loire
Every year, the lively Breton family produces a dozen cuvées from their hometown of Bourgueil that show the terroirs of this appellation alone can yield a wine for just about every occasion. While they do make serious and age-worthy reds, the bottles my colleagues and I—not to mention the Bretons—probably turn to the most often are their more youthful and light-hearted reds, like this juicy, perfumed Cabernet Franc from the Loire’s gravelly riverbanks.
The name “Trinch!” comes from a German expression meaning “cheers,” popularized by the poet and philosopher Rabelais. Like the Bretons, Rabelais was from the Touraine region and he, too, liked a good time centered around food and drink. Fast-forward half a millennium and the Bretons are some of Touraine’s brightest stars today, inspiring us with not only the warmth of their bon vivant personalities but also the joie de vivre in their wines. The Bretons describe their “Trinch!” cuvée as the quintessential match for casse-croûte snacking, made to be enjoyed alongside slices of crusty baguette topped with rillettes de Tours, soft cheeses, or sardines and salted butter. In the convivial Breton spirit, chill down a bottle and kick your feet up. Trinch!
2022 Chinon “Le Domaine”
France | Loire
Classic Chinon such as Baudry’s “Domaine” exudes an autumnal vibe that makes it an excellent choice for serving this time of year. Its balance of dark forest berries, rain-soaked earth, and gravelly tannins with a gentle bite make a pristine match for seasonal staples like game meats and wild mushrooms. It’s a textbook Chinon from one of the great traditionalist domaines, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
France | Loire
Planted in 1904, this Cabernet Franc parcel has seen some things in its lifetime—in fact, the cuvée’s name alludes to the century of memories the vines have accumulated. It’s safe to say they are living out their old age in style, routinely pampered by biodynamic treatments from Thierry Germain and his devoted team. On a visit last May, the vines were positively beaming, the result of a unique farming philosophy that places equal importance on the health of the soil, the plant, and the people tasked with cultivating it. This synergy of course works in favor of the resulting wine, whose harmony from start to finish is a trademark of the Germain lineup. Deep and voluptuous with hints of graphite and tobacco, it finishes on a salty, salivating note that recalls the flinty vineyard soil.