Lionel’s Saint-Josephs
by Chris Santini
2024 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Les Ribaudes”
France | Northern Rhône
Most French people can’t seem to agree on precisely where “southern France” begins, though the imaginary border is usually drawn loosely around Lyon, famously referred to as the stomach of France for its central location and incredible culinary heritage. Saint-Joseph lies just below Lyon, so technically at the start of southern France, though it is an area of transition, culturally and physically, where north meets south. This is perhaps best reflected in Faury’s blanc, where the sunnier south shines through with warm, rich flavors of honeysuckle and hazelnut, while a distinctly northern, buttoned-up tension comes through with an herbal perfume and a touch of beeswax. There is plenty of flesh for lovers of southern wines, with cool complexity and elegance to appeal to Burgundy enthusiasts. Pair it with a paella by the sea, or a robust cheese in a colder clime, whichever direction your pleasure tends.
2023 Saint Joseph Rouge “La Gloriette Vieilles Vignes”
France | Northern Rhône
Black-purple Syrah, sculpted from the granite of which it came. Or perhaps I should say Serine, instead of Syrah, as the parcel was planted nearly a century ago from massal selections of this ancient heirloom of Syrah, known for its savory and perfumed character. Graphite meets pepper at first glance, followed by waves of dark fruit and velvet structure. True vinous pleasure can be found in each glass.