La Famille Quenard
by Jane Augustine
The Quenard family’s long history in the Savoie doesn’t begin with André, but his arrival at the domaine in 1944 marks a turning point in the family’s legacy. When André took over their polyculture farm in the village of Chignin, the wines were still sold only by the barrel to café owners. Around 1960, with a deep-seated belief in the quality of his terroir—before Chignin’s AOC designation in 1976—he began bottling his own wines, championing the steep scree slopes of Torméry, and helping to establish the reputation of an entire winegrowing region along the way. By 1976, his son Michel arrived, and as a duo they were unstoppable, finessing their vineyard work, expanding their holdings, and fine-tuning every detail to produce perfumed and textured whites, robust and nuanced reds. Thirty years later, Michel’s son Guillaume joined the adventure, and for fifteen years the three men worked side-by-side, in whichever ways their various skills permitted. In March of this year, André passed away at the age of ninety-eight. Looking at photos of him harvesting his beloved Bergeron vines well into his silver years, it’s easy to see joy radiating from behind his kind gaze and to glean a sense of fulfillment due, at least in part, to a métier he was so passionate about.
Crémant de Savoie Brut Nature
France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes
Jacquère is the grape in this effervescent crémant. I might compare it to Melon de Bourgogne, in that it’s spirited and lightweight. Think Muscadet with bubbles! It’s a fun wine for unserious gatherings with a convivial ambiance.
2021 Savoie Chignin-Bergeron “Côteau des Ducs”
France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes
This is a special bottling from the domaine, showcasing a vineyard once considered a grand cru by the dukes of Savoie. Bergeron, known as Roussanne elsewhere in France, is fermented and raised in sandstone and cement vessels. The wine is glossy and saline, and beaming with ripe, pitted stone fruit.
2024 Savoie Arbin Mondeuse “Terres Brunes”
France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes
I wish the Mondeuse variety garnered a bit more attention, as the wines it is featured in can hold their own among the great Mourvèdres (Bandol), Syrahs (Saint-Joseph), and Cabernet Francs (Saumur-Champigny). Bold, peppery, and vibrant, Terres Brunes is wine best suited to a dish you can really sink your teeth into.