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2023 Quincy
Domaine Trotereau
Winemaker Pierre Ragon is a national treasure, not only because he has made great Quincy for the last half century, but also because he embodies a version of France that’s rapidly slipping from the present day. Luckily the wines he makes, alongside his young mentee, Augustin Ponroy, preserve history and tradition without compromise. Pierre recalls that back in the day, others in the region picked early to follow trends, while he quietly waited a few more weeks, never in a rush or influenced by the decisions of his neighbors. This bottling has a warm hue and smells of jammy pink citrus and fresh tarragon. It’s hard to believe that such a playful nose leads to wine with depth and gravitas.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Appellation: | Quincy |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Trotereau |
| Winemaker: | Pierre Ragon |
| Vineyard: | 10.64 ha |
| Soil: | Sandy, Silex, Pink Limestone |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Trotereau
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2024 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
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2024 Saumur Champigny “La Foulée”
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch