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2023 Jurançon Sec “Comète”
Clos LarrouyatMaxime and Lucie Salharang
Maxime and Lucie Salharang
If you didn’t know what was in your glass, you might do a double-take after your first sip of Clos Larrouyat’s gorgeous Jurançon “Comète”. With its chalky, racy finish, is it premier cru Chablis? Or, with its luscious notes of Meyer lemon and honey, is it a top Loire Valley Chenin Blanc?
The answer, of course, is neither. While the Comète shares some of the most irresistible qualities of great Chablis, Meursault, and Vouvray, it hails from France’s southwest, in the foothills of the Pyrenees.
After studying with one of Bordeaux’s white-wine legends, the late Denis Dubourdieu, Maxime Salharang returned to Jurançon to apply what he’d learned to this tiny, idyllic, and overlooked corner of France, an hour north of the Spanish border. While he and his wife Lucie waited for the vines they planted on a plot of family land to mature, Maxime honed his mastery of white winemaking at one of Jurançon’s leading domaines nearby. Finally, at the end of 2018, Maxime left Domaine de Souch to focus full-time on Clos Larrouyat.
Everything about Maxime and Lucie’s terroir is poised for freshness and elegance, from its highest position in the appellation and northern exposition—i.e. lower temperatures and slower, even ripening—to the rare band of Trias limestone that runs through their vineyard, imbuing the Comète with a remarkable finesse, minerality, and salinity—qualities you sense the moment you take a sip. Knowing how special this land is, Maxime and Lucie have capped their holdings to just three hectares because they want to do everything themselves (with the help of a few sheep), pampering the vines as if they were a backyard garden.
Applying the perfect final touch, Maxime and Lucie guide the Comète through malolactic fermentation—also rare in Jurançon—which beautifully complements the naturally high acidity of Petit Manseng. As a result, this white is the ultimate embodiment of “tension”—between full-bodied succulence, a chiseled frame, and mouthwatering acidity. It is one of the most exciting white wines you’ll taste all year.
** We only have six cases of this wine and we expect it to sell out quickly. **
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 75% Petit Manseng, 25% Camaralet |
Appellation: | Jurançon |
Country: | France |
Region: | Southwest |
Producer: | Clos Larrouyat |
Winemaker: | Maxime and Lucie Salharang |
Vineyard: | Planted 2011, 2018 |
Soil: | Trias marl, Clay, Limestone |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Clos Larrouyat
We are thrilled to introduce this tiny, family-run Jurançon specialist to the U.S.—a domaine whose pristine, saline whites exceeded our wildest dreams about what could be done in this fascinating little pocket of southwest France. Situated in the commune of Gan, just south of Pau in the shadow of the Pyrenees, Clos Larrouyat enjoys the unique climate that characterizes the vineyards of Jurançon: a combination of mountain freshness with meridional warmth, gently mediated by an oceanic influence from the nearby Atlantic. The landscape is lush and green thanks to the plentiful rainfall, while warm autumns featuring drying southerly foehn winds allow for the late harvests necessary to produce the region’s prestigious moelleux, prized throughout history and famously lauded by Colette for its seductive properties.
About The Region
Southwest
Tucked away beneath Bordeaux and buffeted by the Pyrenees to the south, this expansive region of France, commonly known as the Southwest, is home to a diverse number of viticulture and gastronomic traditions as well as cultures. Though Cahors might be the most well known (and easiest to pronounce) appellation from the Southwest, the importance and influence of French Basque culture cannot be underestimated. Irouléguy, the primary appellation of the Basque region of France produces full-bodied, hearty red wines, produced from Tannat grape (known for its tannic qualities). Dry whites from Irouléguy are also produced from Petit and Gros Manseng. Northeast of Irouléguy is the sweet wine-producing appellation of Jurançon. These moelleux wines made from Petit and Gros Manseng have a storied history in France, from being the first wine region to have a vineyard classification, which dates back to the 154th century, to being preferred wine of royalty dating back to the 16th century as well as the French poet Colette.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174