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2023 Mâcon-Villages “Terroir de Farges Vieilles Vignes”
Henri Perrusset
In the heart of the Mâconnais lies the hilltop village of Chardonnay, self-professed birthplace of the world-famous variety of the same name. True or not, they do have a strong argument going for them given their namesake. At the base of the hill, in the shadow of Chardonnay, is the tiny village of Farges-lès-Mâcon (population: 222; mayor: Henri Perrusset), which is much less famous yet is a wonderful terroir for textbook, perfectly opulent, floral Mâconnais. We sell out of this wine every year and go back begging for more. If you’ve tried it, I’m preaching to the choir. If you haven’t, it’s never too late to get on the bus!
—Chris Santini
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Chardonnay |
| Appellation: | Mâcon Farges |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Burgundy |
| Producer: | Henri Perrusset |
| Winemaker: | Henri Perrusset |
| Vineyard: | 50 - 65 years |
| Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
| Aging: | Wines age on their lees for 8-10 months in stainless steel cuves |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 14.5% |
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The tiny village of Farges-lès-Mâcon is a wonderful terroir for textbook, perfectly opulent, floral Mâconnais.
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About The Producer
Henri Perrusset
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch