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2022 Salina Malvasia “Verticale”

Vignedimare
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Verticale has all the qualities of Abissale but in a more restrained, “vertical” style. The stony soil and extreme location on the active volcano of Stromboli are evident: the fruit has soaked in its environment on this lonely rock in the sea. Soaring, imposing, and intense—I am looking forward to following it over the next decade. To enjoy now, pour it into a wide decanter or Burgundy glass and let it stretch its legs!

Dixon Brooke

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Malvasia di Lipari
Appellation: IGP Salina
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Producer: Vignedimare
Winemaker: Antonino Caravaglio
Vineyard: Planted in 2016; .7 ha
Soil: Volcanic sand
Aging: Aged 18 months in a 500-liter barrel
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Sicily

map of Sicily

Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.

While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.

Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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