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2022 Vin de France Blanc “Grotte di Sole”
Jean-Baptiste Arena
Jean-Baptiste Arena was born with a legendary family name in Corsican wine, but his path to the family domaine was not linear. He studied viticulture, but also attended law school, dabbled in local politics, and interned a harvest in Burgundy before returning home to his roots in Patrimonio. When his prolific father, Antoine, retired, Jean-Baptiste and his younger brother, Antoine-Marie, divided the Arena family holdings, each choosing their favorite parcels to nurture.
I recently tasted Jean-Baptiste’s “Grotte di Sole” in a lineup of current releases from the Arena family. All the whites were dazzling—bright and saline—but when we got to this bottle, I paused. The “sunny grotto” parcel’s aromatics triggered a particular memory. I buried my nose in the glass trying to remember, what is that scent?! It took a few moments and then I was transported back in time to my grandmother’s house during the holidays: her table piled with Satsuma tangerine peels and their segmented globes halved and put on plates already laden with meticulously cleaned and sliced Asian pears—typical winter fruits to finish my Korean family’s holiday dinners.
This bottling of Vermentino comes from the property’s ripest grapes, grown on clay and limestone soil. Jean-Baptiste harvests early and ferments in stainless steel tanks to maintain a vibrant quality, balanced by lush notes of flowers, spice, and citrus that will pair well with any number of foods, from the treasure troves of my family memories to your own.
—Allyson Noman
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Vermentinu |
| Appellation: | Vin de France |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Corsica |
| Producer: | Jean-Baptiste Arena |
| Vineyard: | 60 years, 1 ha |
| Soil: | Clay, limestone |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Jean-Baptiste Arena
About The Region
Corsica
I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch
Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.
Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.
As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.