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A Transcendent Italian Discovery

A Transcendent Italian Discovery

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2022 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”

2022 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”

Cantina Favaro   

Discount Eligible $39.00
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For months, I have lived with regret—regret that I did not buy more of Cantina Favaro’s inaugural shipment of its stunning Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure” when it was in stock earlier this year. Because it’s made from an obscure grape, from a remote corner of northernmost Italy, I assumed that I could pick up a bottle at my leisure. But, not long after it arrived in Berkeley, I walked into 1605 San Pablo Avenue to stock up and, to my surprise, it was already all gone!
     It shouldn’t have been too surprising. Despite its relative obscurity, Favaro’s Erbaluce is one of those bottles that makes you do a double take, sit up straight, and lose your words before regaining them to thank the Wine Gods. Tasting it earlier this year—and again today—I can’t help but think, was this how Kermit felt discovering transcendent Chablis in the 1980s? This Erbaluce is not Chablis, but they share so many alluring traits: a chiseled, cool-climate frame, a tension between bracing citrus and orchard fruit, and an irresistibly chalky note that begs for a pairing of fresh seafood, whether a filet of your favorite fish right off the grill, a lobster roll, or a spaghetti alle vongole.
     At first, I hesitated to broadcast this new shipment, for selfish reasons, I admit. But I am willing to make the sacrifice, because Favaro’s wines deserve to be better known. Don’t wait too long lest you find, as I did, this wine will be gone before we know it!

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About The Region

Piedmont

map of Piedmont

Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.

Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.

Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.

Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.

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Vintage Chart

Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch