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2021 Languedoc Montpeyroux Rouge “Les Cocalières”

Domaine d’Aupilhac
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The appellation of Montpeyroux does not have any official grands crus, but Domaine d’Aupilhac’s Les Cocalières is certainly worthy of such distinction. This volcanic amphitheater, made up of basalt, raw limestone, and marine fossils, is perched high above the town of Montpeyroux and had lain essentially untouched until the inquisitive Sylvain Fadat started to plant vines there in 1999. The move was a stroke of genius, as Fadat’s bottlings from this terroir have proven to be among the most complex and elegant wines of southern France. Savory in a similar way to the reds of Saint-Joseph, the Cocalières rouge evokes black olive, lavender, and roasted game. If you can, cellar some bottles to try over the next twenty years.

Tom Wolf

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2021
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre
Appellation: Languedoc Montpeyroux
Country: France
Region: Languedoc-Roussillon
Producer: Domaine d'Aupilhac
Winemaker: Sylvain Fadat
Vineyard: Planted in 1999-2002
Soil: Limestone, Basalt
Aging: Ages in cuves and barrels for 15 months
Farming: Organic (certified)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Languedoc-Roussillon

map of Languedoc-Roussillon

Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.

While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.

Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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