2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Corsicans are no strangers to rugged landscapes and isolated areas, yet there is only one spot on the island that has earned the name of “Desert” among Corsicans. The Agriates Desert is a large, rugged, empty, and arid swath of land between the Cap Corse and Calvi on the northern end of the island. There are no cities nor towns, only one small paved road, and only one hamlet, with a dozen or so inhabitants. It’s swept year round with a hot and dry wind called the libecciu, and it’s been an empty area for nearly a century. The wind combined with the clay-granite soils makes growing anything here extremely laborious, with the vines requiring constant plowing to allow the roots to forage deep for water and nutrients.
Three generations ago, when Laurent Giacometti purchased a derelict, sprawling vineyard and estate in the middle of the Désert des Agriates, the previous owner handed him the keys and dryly told him, “Welcome to the village where it’s always raining somewhere else.” For centuries, agricultural plans and projects have failed spectacularly in this aptly named desert, and the Giacomettis struggled for many years as well. It took more than three decades of organic farming and persistence for their vines to learn to go deep, away from the parched and sea-salt-crusted surface. Made from Niellucciu blended with a splash of Sciaccarellu, this classy rosé is remarkably fresh, pure, and focused, with a filtered-through-granite minerality—as well-suited to apéritifs as an al fresco summer feast!
—Chris Santini
Wine Type: | Rosé |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 95% Niellucciu, 5% Sciaccarellu |
Appellation: | Patrimonio |
Country: | France |
Region: | Corsica |
Producer: | Domaine Giacometti |
Winemaker: | Simon Giacometti |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1988, 1990, 1993 |
Soil: | Granite |
Aging: | Aged 5 months in stainless steel before bottling |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch
Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.
Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.
As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.
Domaine Comte Abbatucci France | Corsica | Vin de France
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica
Domaine de Marquiliani France | Corsica | Île de Beauté
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Domaine Maestracci France | Corsica | Calvi
Antoine Arena France | Corsica
Antoine-Marie Arena France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Antoine-Marie Arena France | Corsica | Vin de France
Jean-Baptiste Arena France | Corsica | Vin de France
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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