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2021 Bandol Rosé
Domaine TempierLulu Peyraud
Sometimes I love to think back to what it must have been like in the late seventies at Domaine Tempier. Kermit first traveled there in 1977, after having tasted Tempier’s wine a year or two earlier with Richard Olney. Chez Panisse was pouring it at their restaurant around the same time. Future great chefs from all over this country were traveling to Provence to soak up the wine and food culture. It could even be said that the region was the gastronomic capital of the world for a brief moment, at least in certain circles (ours!), and Lulu’s kitchen was the epicenter. Oh, how the wine and conversation must have flowed with those incredible meals, beautiful scenery, and wonderful people who enjoyed life with simplicity, style, and joviality!
In the time that I have worked here, we have sold the wine made by founder Lucien Peyraud’s son, Jean-Marie, up through the 1999 vintage, and then the subsequent vintages produced by Daniel Ravier. I have had the pleasure of tasting wines created by Lucien from Kermit’s cellar, including the legendary 1971 Cuvée Spéciale, his first purchase. I also had the great fortune to know Lulu and dine at her table more than once. The cookbook she and Richard Olney put together is one of my all-time favorites and regularly provides such a fun (and delicious!) way to appreciate her legacy.
This past winter I visited the domaine with Anthony, and Lulu and Lucien’s grandson, Nirvan Rougeot, welcomed us to a barrel tasting in the domaine’s cellars in Le Plan du Castellet. It was moving to witness the third generation telling the story and becoming more involved with the day to day at the winery. He shared some great history: the house on the property was built in 1834, the cellar in 1880, and their first Bandol red was made in 1948. His grandfather drew the boat on their iconic label to resemble the merchant ships from the Bandol harbor that would arrive after traveling down the Rhône River.
Our tasting began with the 2021 blanc, followed by three vintages of their legendary reds in cask and bottle, and finished with the component parts of the new 2021 rosé from tank. The bottled wine has just arrived and is a real beauty, bursting with ripe, juicy Provençal fruit, savory herbs, and perfumed flowers, exquisitely proportioned and guaranteeing total satisfaction. Its arrival is a much-anticipated moment around here every year, and we enjoy continuing to share it with all of you.
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | Rosé |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 55% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 20% Cinsault |
Appellation: | Bandol |
Country: | France |
Region: | Provence |
Producer: | Domaine Tempier |
Winemaker: | Daniel Ravier |
Vineyard: | 20 years average |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Wine ages in cuve for 6 to 8 months |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Tempier
About The Region
Provence
There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.
Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.
Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171