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2020 Bouches-du-Rhône Blanc “Baume Noire”
Clos Sainte MagdeleineInspired by Corsican Vermentinu, which is grown on poor soils and limestone escarpments similar to those at Clos Sainte Magdeleine, Jonathan Sack planted a parcel of this variety in the lieu-dit “Baume-Noire,” a terraced vineyard named for the mysterious natural grottos hidden on the Cap Canaille. He vinifies and ages the wine in sandstone amphorae, providing a delicate harmony while conserving the wine’s expression of dry, stony terroir. Its electric energy—with a higher acidity and less creaminess than the domaine’s Cassis blanc—gives the Baume-Noire serious zip and zest. This wine is completely rockin’ right now.
—Emily Spillmann
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Vermentino |
Appellation: | I.G.P. Bouches-du-Rhône |
Country: | France |
Region: | Provence |
Producer: | Clos Sainte Magdeleine |
Vineyard: | 1.1 ha, 5 years |
Soil: | Limestone |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Clos Sainte Magdeleine
About The Region
Provence
Perhaps there is no region more closely aligned with the history to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. Provence is where Richard Olney, an American ex-pat and friend of Alice Waters, lived, and introduced Kermit to the great producers of Provence, most importantly Domaine Tempier of Bandol. Kermit also spends upwards of half his year at his home in a small town just outside of Bandol.
Vitis vinifera first arrived in France via Provence, landing in the modern day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The influence of terroir on Provençal wines goes well beyond soil types. The herbs from the pervasive scrubland, often referred to as garrigue, as well as the mistral—a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease—play a significant role in the final quality of the grapes. Two more elements—the seemingly ever-present sun and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean—lend their hand in creating a long growing season that result in grapes that are ripe but with good acidity.
Rosé is arguably the most well known type of wine from Provence, but the red wines, particularly from Bandol, possess a great depth of character and ability to age. The white wines of Cassis and Bandol offer complexity and ideal pairings for the sea-influenced cuisine. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, and similar to the Languedoc and Rhône, Grenache, Cinsault, Marsanne, Clairette, Rolle, Ugni Blanc among many other grape varieties are planted.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch