When I conjure up the southern French red of my dreams, or the idea of perhaps making my own one day, inspired by years of tasting my way through the Mediterranean basin, the following is what gets my mouth watering.
     First, I would set out to make a nuanced blend using a combination of grape varieties, each lending its own bit of personality. Sun-loving Grenache would certainly feature, as well as a more dense, tannic grape like Mourvèdre, the perfect complement to the former’s plush, warm textures. Syrah could also serve this role, with the stipulation that it come from a cooler site to preserve its freshness—higher-elevation or north-facing vineyards would make this possible.
     My terroir of choice is a poor, rocky hillside, perhaps limestone, where the vines would struggle for sustenance, drawing finesse and minerality from deep in the subsoil. Finally, I would choose a natural vinification, with some whole clusters for a lively tension, and traditional aging in large, neutral wood vessels that allow the wine to fully express itself. My rouge would be unfiltered, of course, and I’d price it to encourage frequent enjoyment.
     Well, if only I’d been born a Ravaille brother. The three brothers at Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup bottle exactly the wine I just described. They farm their steep, rugged vineyards biodynamically in the Languedoc’s coolest, northernmost appellation, where Syrah, Grenache, and a few other cépages convey a perfect duality of plump Mediterranean richness and savory, floral tones recalling more northerly wines. Chewy, vigorous, and refreshing, with notes of black olive, wild herbs, and brambly fruit, the Ravailles’ Tour de Pierres cuvée really does check all the boxes.