2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
With all due respect to the northern Rhône and its gorgeous expressions of Roussanne, it is very tempting to say that the variety’s future lies in Savoie. Known here as Bergeron, it grows on well-exposed slopes of limestone scree, sucking up mineral essence from the stone that has crumbled down these precipitous mountainsides. Bergeron enjoys an Alpine-influenced climate significantly cooler than that along the baking banks of the Rhône, fifty miles or so to the west—a welcome chill in a time when each vintage seems hotter and drier than the last.
While Alpine Roussanne may be a novelty to most, the grape has been cultivated in these parts just as long as it has thrived in the Rhône Valley. In fact, the Romans arrived here from across the Alps in the second century AD, planting some of Savoie’s first vineyards, records indicate, on a steep slope known today as the Coteau de Torméry.
Nowadays, the Quenard family of nearby Chignin carries on the tradition of growing grapes on the near-vertical heap of rocky rubble that is the Coteau de Torméry. The highest and steepest section of the vineyard has even been terraced to enable viticulture.
This beautifully refined, tenderly floral, and succulently peachy wine, born from pure stone, is the outcome—a product of centuries of tradition, one chosen site, and a family’s laborious dedication to eking out a most genuine elixir from Savoie’s towering mountain facades.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Roussanne |
Appellation: | Savoie Chignin-Bergeron |
Country: | France |
Region: | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes |
Producer: | André & Michel Quenard |
Winemaker: | André & Michel Quenard |
Vineyard: | 25 years, 3 ha |
Soil: | Terraced steep limestone scree slopes |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Roussette de Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie Chignin
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Crémant de Savoie
The Savoie is a picture of fairy-tale perfection: snow-capped peaks, rolling hills, and sparkling mountain streams. This idyllic region is where Michel Quenard farms twenty-two hectares of vineyards along the steep slopes around Chignin. His grandfather started the domaine in the 1930s. Though he slowly increased his vineyard holdings, he mostly sold off his wine. It wasn’t until 1960 that Michel’s father, André, began bottling under their own label. Michel joined the domaine in 1976. Today, he is joined by his sons, Guillaume and Romain. Their cuvées go beyond the simple “eclectic” that categorizes wines from Savoie; they are unique revelations that reflect the complexity of their terroir and the artistry of this master.
Lambert de Seyssel France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Seyssel
Patrick Bottex France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Bugey
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie Chignin-Bergeron
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Crémant de Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie Chignin
Lambert de Seyssel France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Seyssel
André et Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Vin de Savoie
Lambert de Seyssel France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Seyssel
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Roussette de Savoie
André & Michel Quenard France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes | Savoie
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
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