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Spumante Dosaggio Zero Col Fondo “Numerocinque”

La Marca di San Michele
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I am not ashamed to say that recently this bottle accompanied me to my first meal of the day. It was a sunny, lazy Sunday morning quickly shifting into afternoon and the only plan for it was simple: Oysters. Somewhere outside. By the water. What could be better? Adding a bottle of Numerocinque, as it turns out.
     This citrusy sparkler from the brother and sister team at La Marca di San Michele has playful hallmarks of both a pet-nat and metodo classico. It is refermented with extended elévage in bottle and the wine is left undisgorged and unfiltered—all lending texture and complexity. The Verdicchio variety is unmistakably fresh, fun, and chalky here, harkening to the vineyards in which it’s grown, on millions-of-years-old limestone slopes that used to be under the sea. The wine’s salinity finds balance with a delightfully tart note of lemon rind and lo and behold, the whole Sunday scene read flawlessly: bobbing boats in a harbor, plates laden with bivalve shells, morning-turned afternoon slipping into an open-ended evening, and the bottle of wine, which tied it all together.

Allyson Noman

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Technical Information
Wine Type: sparkling
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Verdicchio
Country: Italy
Region: Le Marche
Producer: La Marca di San Michele
Winemaker: Alessandro Bonci, Beatrice Bonci, Daniela Quaresima
Vineyard: 2.8 ha, planted in 2005
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Aged on fine lees since the June after harvest
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 11.5%

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About The Region

Le Marche

map of Le Marche

Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.

In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.

While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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