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2020 Malvasia Istriana

Kante
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The white wines of Friuli’s Carso region, grown on a wind-battered plateau overlooking the Adriatic city of Trieste, remind me of Chablis in that it’s easy to forget the grape variety when there is such a strong soil signature. In this bottling from Friuli all-star Edi Kante, Malvasia Istriana’s trademark notes of white pepper and aromatic herbs take a back seat to the purity and precision conferred by its cool, stony terroir. You may also find subtle hints of orange blossom, a whisper of lemon oil, and a creamy note punctuated by a salinity that will make you salivate. This wine is designed for simply prepared seafood, but you’ll have trouble finding a better partner for warm Castelvetrano olives marinated with citrus zest and herbs.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Malvasia
Appellation: Venezia Giulia
Country: Italy
Region: Friuli
Producer: Edi Kante
Winemaker: Edi Kante
Vineyard: 19 years average, 3 ha
Soil: Clay and Limestone
Aging: Aged for 12 months in old barrels, then aged for 6 more months in stainless steel tank
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Friuli

map of Friuli

Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.

Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.

Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.

Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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