2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
Frost has been a vicious foe of vignerons across the Loire Valley in recent years. But arguably no AOC and no vintage have borne the brunt more than Jasnières in April 2019. This northernmost appellation is colder than much of the region and its relatively small Loir—no “e”—River doesn’t have as much of a temperature-moderating effect as the Loire River to the south does. Pascal Janvier, who routinely crafts exquisite Chenin Blancs in Jasnières (JAH-nee-air), was able to salvage very little Chenin that year—the bitter cold wiped out almost all of his white-wine grapes. In order to survive and make any blanc, he had to source grapes from nearby AOCs, such as Vouvray and Coteaux du Vendomois; hence, this cuvée bears the “Vin de France” label. Even though Pascal’s loss of his Chenin Blanc in Jasnières in 2019 was tragic, he nevertheless turned out a wonderful white wine. This bottling bears his trademark notes of green apple, citrus, and flint. Pascal’s pairing recommendation? “Charcuterie,” says the butcher-turned-vigneron.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Pascal Janvier |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
Pascal Janvier France | Loire | Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire | Jasnières
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Champalou France | Loire | Vouvray
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Val de Loire
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur Champigny
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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