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2019 Terre Siciliane Grenache “Vigna degli Architetti”
GrottafumataWhoever planted these old Grenache vines on one of Mount Etna’s lava fields made a masterful decision, matching grape, altitude, and soil. Mauro Cutuli of Grottafumata had the good judgment to recognize this when he went looking for vineyards to add to his small collection of top Etna terroirs. The resulting wine delivers the haunting perfume and silky fruit of the best Grenache along with luscious tannins and the unmistakable stamp of the Etna volcano—a brilliant take on this incredible grape!
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Grenache, with small percentages of Grenache Blanc, Carricante, Nerello Mascalese |
Appellation: | IGT Terre Siciliane |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Sicily |
Producer: | Grottafumata |
Winemaker: | Mauro Cutuli, Mariangela Prestifilippo |
Vineyard: | 0.5 ha total, 45 years average |
Soil: | Clay, limestone, basalt |
Aging: | Aged 2 years in old oak barrels |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2021 Terre Siciliane Nerello Mascalese “Lato Sud”
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Grottafumata means “smoky caves” and that's exactly what I think about when I swish this around. Grown in volcanic soils, it's a perfect balance between smoky tannins and Sicilian grapes.
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This old-vine Carricante gets its luxurious golden hue from four days of skin contact, a traditional process on Etna that really brings out the distinctive scents of this special place.
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About The Producer
Grottafumata
Grottafumata means “smoky caves,” named for the caves formed by a nearby river that has eaten through the lava and the smoke from naturally occurring sulfur in the lava that steams up from the caves. Mauro and Mariangela have won many awards for their olive oil in Italy and we can see why. It is an incredible all-around oil—herbaceous and savory with a light touch and it tends to go well with everything.
Their wine project is on the opposite eastern slope of Mount Etna. The contrada where their vines are located is called Monte Ilice, situated between the towns of Trecastagni and Zafferana Etnea. Monte Ilice is an absolutely incredible slope, due east, that rises at least at a 45-degree angle, high on the slopes of Etna at 700 to 840 meters above sea level. Grottafumata works 1.4 hectares here, along with the help of the landowner who is in his eighties and still works the vines with his brother. Many of the vines are franchi di piede (planted on their own rootstock) and up to 100 years old.
About The Region
Sicily
Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.
While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.
Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch