Unlike Morgon or Côte-de-Brouilly, Chiroubles is not a Beaujolais cru that has been a fixture of our portfolio over the last five decades. Exceptional wines from here have proved elusive because, until recently, high-quality cru Beaujolais had not been popular enough to justify the backbreaking labor and financial investment involved in farming these incredibly steep slopes. We imported one in the ’90s, and then not again until the 2017 vintage, when Guy Breton decided to pursue Chiroubles and crafted one of our most beautiful Beaujolais of that vintage. He’s back with an equally perfumed and silky rendition that has a habit of vanishing quickly. Chiroubles sits in the middle of the vertical band of the ten Beaujolais crus and represents the highest-altitude cru. Its elevation and cooler temperatures mean that grapes ripen more slowly and often produce wines that are among the least concentrated of the region. Guy’s Chiroubles is floral and succulent, bursting with notes of little red berries, but it is also delicate and light on its feet. It serves as a phenomenal counterpoint to some of the more structured Gamays that we import from Beaujolais. Try this wine alongside some chicken salad or grilled fish.
Guy Breton is known by his friends as Petit Max – though he is anything but petit, by the way. He took over the family domaine from his grandfather in 1986. Following the example of traditionalist Jules Chauvet, Guy and three other local vignerons Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Jean Foillard, soon hoisted the flag of Chauvet’s back-to-nature movement. Kermit dubbed this clan the Gang of Four, and the name has stuck ever since. The Gang called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification. The end result allows Morgon to express itself naturally, without make-up or plastic surgery: rustic, spicy, loaded with schist minerals and at the same time, refreshing and deep-down delicious.
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
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