The eastern Loire Valley may be the epicenter of elegant, cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc, but it is not the only place this grape can reach stunning heights. Along the steep slopes of the Dolomites, in northeastern Italy’s Alto Adige region, Peter Dipoli grows and vinifies Sauvignon Blanc so distinctive and mesmerizing that it pushes the boundaries of how wines from this variety should taste. Much like a glass of great Chablis, which is made from Chardonnay but has its own unique and unmistakable essence, Voglar is incredibly stimulating in that it is made from Sauvignon Blanc, but you would never mistake it for Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. At most, it tastes like a distant cousin.
      As singular as this bianco is, Peter considers himself a traditionalist and devotee to cool-climate Sauvignon, so much so that he performed extensive terroir studies in the late ’80s to find exactly where he should plant his grapes. On top of being stunningly beautiful, the limestone-rich and high-elevation slopes near Bolzano are perfectly suited to the variety, allowing Peter’s grapes to mature at a glacial pace. This, in turn, guarantees that they ripen evenly while preserving the liveliness that makes Sauvignon Blanc so mouth-watering. Peter then ages the wine in large acacia botti, which lends the perfect finishing touch, imbuing this bianco with exhilarating complexity, texture, and balance. At once luscious and vibrant, Voglar is not only one of Italy’s most sublime Sauvignon Blancs, but one of the country’s great white wines.