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Ten Cases of Pure Joy
Ten Cases of Pure Joy
by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch
2018 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
2018 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
Bernard Baudry, right, and his son Matthieu
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
Quantities extremely limited, maximum 6 bottles per purchase
Vignerons can be sneaky people. Take Matthieu Baudry, who nonchalantly handed me a bottle—as if it were an afterthought—following an outstanding tasting at his family domaine near Chinon last summer. He muttered something along the lines of “I do this on the side, for fun” as I stared at him inquisitively, the look on my face asking, Were you trying to hide this from me?!
The wine in question is a Grolleau produced from nine-year-old ungrafted—franc de pied— vines in a small sandy parcel on the banks of the Vienne, a tributary to the Loire that has carved out some of the finest terroirs in the great Chinon appellation. Once widely planted in its native Loire Valley, Grolleau can still be found in certain pockets, but requires the hand of a skilled vigneron to check its high-yielding nature. Matthieu ferments the Grolleau whole-cluster and ages it in tank, producing a juicy libation brimming with lively fruit marked by the silky, sensuous texture of an unfiltered bottling. Brambly berries and lifted floral notes combine with an earthy coolness and touch of spice in this red whose low alcohol level makes it even easier to fervently slurp down.
While it does not carry the heft or nuance of Matthieu’s Chinon bottlings, this cuvée—served chilled, of course—has the irresistible, easygoing nature of top Beaujolais. He was able to spare ten cases of his “afterthought,” and we are thrilled to offer it for the first time.
Bernard Baudry, right, and his son Matthieu
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2018 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Grolleau |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Vineyard: | Vines 9 years old |
| Soil: | Sand, yellow limestone |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
Quantities extremely limited, maximum 6 bottles per purchase
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc. Ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes, it has a saline, mineral finish that leaves my palate simultaneously satisfied and begging for more. Try it with fresh trout, grilled whole topped with chimichurri or smoked and tossed into a Niçoise salad.
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
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It’s a textbook Chinon, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
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Les Grézeaux comes from the Baudry’s oldest vines, which yield a concentrated and silky rouge that is ready to drink today but will age beautifully.
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Thierry’s Saumur Blancs are bone-dry, high-acid, mineral Chenin Blancs that drink like Chablis young and take on weight slowly over time.
2024 Coteaux du Loir Rouge “Cuvée du Rosier”
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This red is 100% Pineau d’Aunis, an indigenous red grape we hold dear because of its mystifying aromatics and bright, juicy texture.
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
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This is the grandest bottling of Cabernet Franc from one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers.
2024 Chinon “Les Granges”
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Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.
2022 Chinon Blanc
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Ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes, it has a saline, mineral finish that leaves my palate begging for more.
2021 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
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Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse.
2024 Chinon Rosé
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Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
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2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
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2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
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2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
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2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
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Vouvray Brut
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2020 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
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2023 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2023 Savennières
Château d’Epiré France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2018 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171