2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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There was once a Guy Larue from Saint-Aubin, a young man drafted into the army in 1938, sent to the front against the invading Germans a year later, taken prisoner, and moved to a farm deep in current-day Poland for five years of forced labor. He found his way home in 1945, several months after the war ended, having endured seven years away from his village and family, with no one aware if he was still among the living. All the young ladies of the area had already married, and he worried he might have missed the boat. Patience paid off. Not only did he meet his future wife in due time, but also she was the owner of several choice parcels of Saint-Aubin, including a plot in Sur le Sentier du Clou—perhaps not the village’s most famous premier cru, but one of the most sought after by vignerons for its perfectly placed, mid-slope, east-facing position. The high limestone content gives this Pinot plenty of spice and ripe cherry with great acidity and persistence. Today the couple’s son Didier is the proud owner and steward of the land.
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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