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2017 Condrieu
Lionel Faury
The Viognier grape has been cultivated on the granite slopes of Condrieu since at least Roman times, and likely long before, which makes it all the more incredible that it almost disappeared after World War II; production for the entire appellation dropped to as low as 2,500 bottles in the late 1960s, according to John Livingstone-Learmonth in The Wines of the Northern Rhône. Its revival has been hard fought, as the steep, terraced slopes here are painstakingly difficult to work, but the payoff for diligent growers is one of the world’s most remarkable dry whites. Its ravishing perfume, luxurious body and texture, and unique abilities at table endow Condrieu with a special place in the connoisseur’s cellar. Flabby and sweet versions are easy to produce, but the dry style, which preserves perfume and freshness along with unctuous richness, is the Holy Grail. For a little more than a decade, Lionel Faury has been mastering the art, and he is now among the elite producers of this storied French white.
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Viognier |
Appellation: | Condrieu |
Country: | France |
Region: | Northern Rhône |
Producer: | Lionel Faury |
Winemaker: | Phlippe Faury |
Vineyard: | Planted between 1976 and 2007, 3.3 ha |
Soil: | Granite |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
Lionel Faury
Along the steep, narrow valley that traces the northern Rhône, the appellations of Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Saint-Joseph take their place among the great wines of France, and Domaine Faury is one of the region’s most artisanal producers. When Philippe Faury took over the domaine in 1979, the family was selling wine, peaches and cherries, and the bulk of their clientele was local. Over the years, Philippe increased their holdings to over 11 hectares and began to sell internationally. He shared his savoir faire with his son, Lionel. Since 2006, Lionel has taken over the reins, though father and son still work side by side. Every method they use encourages the grape towards greatness with the ultimate respect for its fragility.
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