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2017 Friuli Venezia Giulia Malvasia “Chioma Integrale”
Vignai da DulineThe name of this lovely wine highlights the Duline philosophy: “No trimming of the shoots!” This applies to viticoltore Lorenzo Mochiutti’s hair and beard as well as to his vineyards. Chioma in Italian means “long hair” and “canopy of tree leaves.” Though it is generally accepted that vines are trimmed of excess leaves or fruit to concentrate a vine’s efforts toward healthy bunches of grapes, Lorenzo and Federica let their vines find their own balance, choosing not to trim any of their vines. Suffice it to say that this is one of Duline’s many secrets to success. Malvasia Istriana is a form of the Malvasia grape that is native to the Istrian Peninsula, and it produces deliciously complex white wines that are a far cry from other Malvasia produced in central Italy. This is a seductive apéritif and an excellent seafood white.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Malvasia Istriana |
Appellation: | Venezia Giulia |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Friuli |
Producer: | Vignai da Duline |
Winemaker: | Federica Magrini, Lorenzo Mochiutti |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1960, .53 ha |
Soil: | Limestone and clay red soil |
Aging: | Aged for 7-8 months, 50% in 5-year old + 11hl oak barrel, 50% in 2.5hl barrels between 5 and 15-years old |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Vignai da Duline
About The Region
Friuli
Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.
Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.
Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.
Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch