2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
Domaine Baudry is an essential stop on any person’s journey to discover the fine wines of the Loire. Not only are Bernard Baudry and his son, Matthieu, traditionalists in their vineyards and cellar, always seeking to bottle authentic representations of Chinon’s varied terroirs, but they have proven over many vintages they can expertly craft wines of purity, grace, and genuine regional character. This cuvée features old Cabernet Franc vines in the lieu-dit Les Grézeaux, a gravelly parcel over clay-silica subsoil. It consistently shows concentration and dense structure, all while remaining smooth and accessible. Les Grézeaux also has delightful earthy nuances like herbal and peppery notes, which tend to gain prominence with age, as additional complexities emerge over five, ten, or fifteen years in bottle. A textbook Chinon like this merits simple, rustic cuisine such as roast game, baked potatoes, and sautéed porcini mushrooms.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
Appellation: | Chinon |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
Vineyard: | 65 years, 3 ha |
Soil: | Gravel |
Aging: | Aged for twelve months in barrel and are not fined or filtered |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire | Reuilly
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Pascal Janvier France | Loire | Jasnières
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Vouvray
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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