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Cannonau is grown all over Sardegna, but the town of Mamoiada, in the island’s mountainous interior, could be considered one of its grand cru sites. With a mere 2 ha of vines and a radically artisanal approach, Giovanni Montisci has established himself as one of Mamoiada’s foremost ambassadors. He has earned a cult-like following for his distinctive Cannonaus from organically farmed old vines grown up to 650 meters elevation. The chilly nights here allow for slow and steady ripening, preserving precious acidity. Giovanni’s wines are the product of his painstaking attention to detail, from the meticulous work among his ancient alberello-trained vines to the gorgeous Quintarelli-inspired labels adorning each bottle.
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch