2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Kermit's Pick
Morus Alba is a magical blend of old-vine Malvasia Istriana grown in red clay with a rare, ancient clone of Sauvignon in sandstone marl soil (known as flysch). The very different, yet complementary grapes and terroirs create a Friulian wine experience with few equals. Aged in neutral barrels with complete malo, Morus Alba is a full-bodied, textured white with many layers. The tiny yields give an intensely concentrated wine of immense complexity, with delicate aromas of white flowers and ripe citrus soaring over a deep, rich structure, all balanced on a taut beam of minerality. It should be decanted and savored in large Burgundy glasses, as you would do with a fine Meursault. Discovering each arrival from Duline—getting acquainted with each, beginning to realize what you’ve got in your glass—is a profound experience.
I think Morus Alba is best drunk in front of the sea, with fish appetizers—even raw. One night in a restaurant, I witnessed a man pour a splash directly into a shucked oyster. It was a simple, yet powerful pairing. Otherwise, I suggest a vegetable risotto, or a pasta with zucchini and shrimp.
—Federica Magrini of Vignai da Duline
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2016 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 60% Malvasia Istriana, 40% Sauvignon |
Appellation: | Delle Venezie |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Friuli |
Producer: | Vignai da Duline |
Winemaker: | Federica Magrini, Lorenzo Mochiutti |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1940 & 1979, .36 ha (Malvasia) 1.04 ha (Sauvignon |
Soil: | Red soil (Malvasia) Flysch soil (Sauvignon) |
Aging: | Aged for 11 months in 2.5 hl oak barrels |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 14% |
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.
Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.
Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.
Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Grave
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Grave
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa