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2015 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso “Morus Nigra”

Vignai da Duline
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Through their conscientious and incredibly labor-intensive school of viticulture, Federica Magrini and Lorenzo Mocchiutti of Vignai da Duline are able to bring pristine, balanced fruit into their cellar, where they gently usher it to winehood via low-intervention practices. Purity, focus, and lively energy radiate through their wines, making each bottle a masterful interpretation of the native Friulan grape varieties they grow. Refosco in their hands reveals an explosion of red and black fruit, like wild mulberries, over a finely knit tannic structure and mouthwatering acidity. The 2005 Morus Nigra ranks among the best wines I drank all year; this 2015 appears destined to age similarly.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
Appellation: Friuli Colli Orientali
Country: Italy
Region: Friuli
Producer: Vignai da Duline
Winemaker: Federica Magrini, Lorenzo Mochiutti
Vineyard: Planted in 1996 & 2005, 1.71 ha
Soil: Limestone and clay red soil and Marl-sandstone and limestone flysch
Aging: Aged 11 months in 2.5hl oak barrels (max 30% new oak)
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Friuli

map of Friuli

Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.

Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.

Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.

Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174