2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
You’re not alone if you don’t recognize the Bramaterra name. Calling its location “off the beaten path” is an understatement—it’s more than seventy miles north of Alba, in the foothills of the Alps. The Alps assert a prominent influence on this corner of Piedmont, providing cooling mountain winds, but what most sets Bramaterra apart from Barolo or Barbaresco is that, traditionally, small amounts of Croatina and Vespolina are blended to soften the tannic tendencies of the predominant Nebbiolo. Matteo Baldin’s goal is to make that traditional style, which to him means crafting a wine with elegance. It offers a tight-knit focus, good acidity, and enough tannin, with rose-petal aromas. Decant for an hour or two, keep the wine slightly cool, and you’ll have a transcendent pairing with any hearty meat you throw on the grill.
—Clark Z. Terry
Piero Benevelli Italy | Piedmont | Dolcetto d’Alba
A. & G. Fantino Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
A. & G. Fantino Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
A. & G. Fantino Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Matteo Baldin is a fierce advocate of the Bramaterra style. Unlike the many other Nebbiolo focused appellations of Piedmont, Bramaterra can have up to 20% Croatina. Though there is a trend away from using larger amounts of Croatina in his village, he believes that to make an elegant and typical Bramaterra, you need to stick with the traditional blend and work hard to achieve optimal maturity of each grape.
His plantings are modest with just 1.5 total hectares planted to vine, on slopes rich in clay and volcanic porphyry. The vines are densely planted, Guyot trained, and receive organic treatments. Matteo’s goal is to obtain high quality grapes with low yields.
Matteo is a focused and driven individual, carving out a living in a way that few choose to these days. His approach to wine and life are deeply intertwined:
“The terroir must emerge and balanced wines better speak my language of simplicity. Speaking through the wine, the aromas, and the flavor of my land, all makes me happy, satisfied. Balance, simplicity, terroir, instinct. These are my cardinal points. This is my little cellar.”
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Cantine Valpane Italy | Piedmont
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Dolcetto d’Alba
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Guido Porro Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
Cantine Valpane Italy | Piedmont | Barbera del Monferrato
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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