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Vigneron Laurent Martelet says, “Le vin est la mémoire du temps”—wine holds the memory of time. His nose in a glass of 2013 Hameau de Blagny, Laurent recounts the vintage’s challenges as if looking at a picture album. A long winter brought on a late bud break. Flowering came late June after much rain. Hail threatened throughout summer. Harvest began in October—later than usual. The longer the vine exerts itself, the more interesting the wine becomes, because “suffering brings complexity,” states Laurent. This wine is as complex as they come, a strict and tightly wound witness to the trials and triumphs of a demanding year.
|Winemaker:||Hélène Martelet-de-Chérisey, Laurent Martelet|
|Vineyard:||Planted in 1950, 1.7 ha|
|Aging:||The percentage of new oak and the length of aging depend on the vintage|
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312