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Vigneron Laurent Martelet says, “Le vin est la mémoire du temps”—wine holds the memory of time. His nose in a glass of 2013 Hameau de Blagny, Laurent recounts the vintage’s challenges as if looking at a picture album. A long winter brought on a late bud break. Flowering came late June after much rain. Hail threatened throughout summer. Harvest began in October—later than usual. The longer the vine exerts itself, the more interesting the wine becomes, because “suffering brings complexity,” states Laurent. This wine is as complex as they come, a strict and tightly wound witness to the trials and triumphs of a demanding year.
|Winemaker:||Hélène Martelet-de-Chérisey, Laurent Martelet|
|Vineyard:||Planted in 1950, 1.7 ha|
|Aging:||The percentage of new oak and the length of aging depend on the vintage|
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Aloxe-Corton
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch