When it comes to sustainable agriculture and natural winemaking, Didier Barral’s often extreme, consistently brilliant methods have established him as a maverick in the field. His primary concern is establishing each of his vineyards as a self-sustaining ecosystem. By way of his creative thinking and intimate knowledge of the land, he fosters an environment rich in biodiversity where insect, plant, and microbial life benefit the soil to create a favorable habitat for his vines to prosper.
      On a recent visit, we found Didier planting fruit trees to line his parcels, providing a hospitable environment for bats—the creatures are essential to containing the ver de la grappe, a destructive vineyard pest. Another time, he demonstrated the importance of allowing a herd of cows to graze between the vineyard rows, as they return nutrients to the soil while limiting the growth of weeds that compete with the vines for resources.
      These unconventional practices only serve to spotlight the fine terroir of Faugères, where Didier creates three structured, sun-soaked reds. Valinière is his top cuvée, produced from Mourvèdre with some Syrah on north-facing schist hillsides. This distinctive schist marks the wine, giving it a dark streak of graphite to underscore the heady black fruit, spice, and licorice aromas. A rustic, powerful wine, it has the potential for long-term aging, while its remarkable elegance allows it to be appreciated already.
      In line with his rebellious viticultural practices, Didier does not filter or add sulfur to his wines. The inherent purity, depth, and aliveness of this bottling compellingly reflect this man’s renegade methodology and hands-on, do-it-yourself philosophy. Now it’s your turn to see why Didier Barral’s wines have a cult-like following, with a massive influence on winemakers and consumers alike throughout France and beyond. –Anthony Lynch