Pierre’s wife, Sophie, is the kind of French woman American women—and men—have been known to swoon over. Effortlessly elegant, with depth in her voice and Juliette Binoche–style charisma, she could not be a more sophisticated spokesperson for her family’s wines. When I asked her to name the best moment for opening a bottle of 2017 Clos des Angles, the answer was a simple and confident “Today.” Of course. “The 2017 is a generous, charming vintage: already very approachable,” she explained. Violets and roses on the nose, and ample volume on the palate, with a Morello cherry freshness.
Here’s an idea for a study in terroir: invite a couple friends, start the barbecue, and open a bottle of Serpentières alongside a bottle of Jarrons. The two vineyards face each other on opposite sides of the road from Beaune to Savigny. The first, south-facing on limestone-clay marl, has everything in its favor to produce a charming, delicate, beautiful wine—and so it does. The second, Les Jarrons, with sandy, dry soil, and direct sun only in the morning, has everything to test the grower’s savoir faire. The Guillemot interpretation gives a concentrated, structured wine with notable intensity, at no cost to the signature charm that can be found in every one of this producer’s cuvées. We import 900 of the 1,200 bottles they produce each year—as much as we can get, which speaks for itself.
A long-standing partnership with Domaine Jean Collet is at the origin of this unique cuvée, produced for Kermit from the blending of three Vaillons lieux-dits—Châtains, Sur les Vaillons, and Les Epinottes—and bottled under this fabulous historical label bearing fourth-generation Romain’s great-grandfather’s name, Henri Costal. Romain says Les Vaillons is “rich, fleshy, and overflowing with stone fruit aromas.”
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